One of the most frequently asked question about derma rolling is How to use Derma Roller?
Whether you are a beginner or a current user of derma roller, we've put together a comprehensive guide to using derma rollers and these are the topics we'll be covering:
Derma rolling or microneedling is a clinically proven skincare method in which micro needles are rolled over your face and/or body creating thousands of (harmless) micro-injuries, which will stimulate deeper layers of your skin to regenerate new collagen and elastin which are essential to reduce the appearance of fine lines, scars, cellulite and thus improve the overall texture of your skin.
Before we move onto the science behind derma rolling, let’s take a short moment to go through why wrinkles and fine lines appear as we get older.
The first 2 layers of our skin is called the epidermis & dermis. The outer layer is called the epidermis which acts as a barrier to water and environmental injury to protect our skin. The inner layer is called the dermis and this is where collagen and elastin are produced & stored. Collagen helps to provide skin firmness while elastin maintains the skin’s elasticity and tightness.
As we age, our skin produces less collagen and elastin resulting in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Some experts say that after the age of 20, a person will produce approximately 1 percent less collagen in their skin each year.
In additional to aging, environmental damages such as excessive sun exposure without the use of sun-screen, pollution and tobacco use etc can also result in a loss of collagen and elastin, uneven skin tone and in worst cases, skin cancer. These environmental damages leave deep wrinkles and cause our skin to become dry and dull.
During dermarolling, the microneedles create micro punctures to your skin without damaging the outer epidermis layer. This procedure leads to the release of growth factors which stimulates the formation of new natural collagen and elastin in the lower part of the dermis layer. In addition, new tiny blood vessels are formed which also helps in the reduction of scars. New collagen that is formed will move towards the surface of your skin and thereby helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, maintaining a healthy, glowing skin structure.
So, the thought of using a roller with needles on your skin might sound terrifying and the rewards for doing this must be worth the cause right?! Absolutely!
Derma rolling is one of the most natural way to stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin to help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and scars. In addition, derma rolling can also reduce the appearance of cellulite and could also work to help rejuvenate hair follicles and help in hair growth.
A micro derma roller is simply a device that consist of 2 parts:
The first part of the derma roller is a rotating structure that is filled with micro needles that can be run over the face & body. This is usually termed as the derma roller head and can vary in the number of needles per head and the length of needles.
The second part of the derma roller is the area is the handle and this can be either a fixed handle or a removable handle. A removable handle is more flexible as it allows you to change different derma roller heads to suit different needs of micro needling.
It is important to clean and disinfect your derma roller before AND after each derma rolling session to ensure that your derma roller is free of any bacteria that could potentially cause an infection.
Step 1: Rinse your derma roller head under hot water (NOT boiling water) for about 5 seconds to remove any residual blood or skin cells. Even if you are using a brand new roller, it is still recommended for you to first rinse your derma roller to get rid of any unexpected dust on the derma roller.
Step 2: Find a container that is big enough contain the derma roller head. Next, fill the container with 60 – 90% alcohol (any of these alcohol will work: rubbing alcohol, methanol alcohol or isopropyl alcohol) such that the entire derma roller head is submerged in the alcohol liquid for about 15 – 30 minutes.
It is beneficial to find derma rollers that already come with a disinfection container which is specially suited to clean & disinfect your derma rollers. Rejuviss 5-in-1 Advanced Derma Roller System comes with a disinfection chamber in its storage box to allow you to conveniently disinfect your derma rollers every time you use it.
Step 3: Take the derma roller out and shake the excess alcohol away. Start derma rolling the desired area and when you are done with your dermarolling session, repeat step 1 and 2 again to clean your derma roller before putting them away. Always leave your derma roller to air-dry before placing them into the storage box.
If you are using your Rejuviss derma rollers, you can place your derma roller directly into the storage box provided & leave your derma roller to air-dry before closing the cover for storage.
1. Choose Desired Size of Derma Roller Head: When done right, derma rolling can be easily incorporated into your regular beauty regime. If you are using your Rejuviss 5-in-1 Advanced Derma Roller System, select your desired size of roller head and attach it to the handle with a twist and secure method. Choose your desired size of roller head based on the area of your face or body that you’d like to derma roll.
2. Clean and Disinfect Your Derma Roller: Next step will be to clean & disinfect your derma roller heads to protect your skin against any unwanted infection. Refer to the section above on how to clean your derma roller.
3. Identify the area on face or body to derma roll: It is important to focus derma-rolling on a section of your face or body before moving onto another section. Therefore, begin by identifying which part of your face or body you’d like to derma roll.
4 Directions Per Section Rule: The 4 directions per section rule ensure that you have optimally covered that area needed to be derma rolled. The 4 directions are:
For each direction, move the roller up to 4 times and then proceed to roll in the other direction consecutively. For example, move the roller up and down 4 times and then change direction to move the roller left and right 4 times before changing direction again.
Area of face to derma roll: Typically, you’ll want to cover the entire of your face for optimal effect. These include the cheeks, the forehead, the nose, the chin, the lips and the jaw lines. For area under and around your eyes, it is recommended to use our 240 microneedle derma roller head that is specifically designed to work around the corner of your eyes without accidentally hurting your eyes.
If you are using Rejuviss 5-in-1 Advanced Derma Roller System, refer to the illustration below on choosing the right derma roller head for different parts of your face and body.
Always lift up your derma roller when changing direction and not drag the roller across your skin. Your derma roller is made of many microneedles which will cause a tear in your skin if you drag your roller across rather than lifting it up when you change direction.
When derma rolling, you can apply a gentle amount of pressure to help your derma roller penetrate your skin however, do not overdo it to avoid unnecessary lacerations.
If you have any open wound such as an active acne or a cut that is still raw, do not derma roll that area of your skin until your wound has healed. You do not want to introduce more trauma to your healing skin with the microneedles which will prolong healing time.
Based on our experience, it takes about 5 – 7 minutes to completely derma roll your face which makes derma rolling a very quick and effective beauty regime for that smooth healthy glow we all yearn for!
If you are also going to derma roll targeted area of your body, it may take another 5 – 10 minutes, depending on the area you have chosen. The principles on derma rolling your body are the same as that for your face. Always start with one section of your body and complete that section by rolling in 4 different directions before moving onto another section.
Before derma rolling, it is important to always start with a clean face that is free of makeup and dirt. Most people will start to derma roll their clean face without the need to use any products prior to derma rolling.
However, if you are afraid of the pain of derma rolling, consider using a numbing cream to help ease the pain. Numbing cream are readily available in most pharmacies under the brand names Emla, Lidocaine Plus or ZCaine. Look out for products that contain Lidocaine or prilocaine as the active ingredient if you cannot find the above-mentioned brand names.
Using Numbing Cream Before Derma Rolling: One should start with a skin patch test if this is your first time using a numbing cream. Apply a small amount to the back of your hand to check for any adverse reactions before using. Once you are cleared of any allergies, you can start to apply the numbing cream to the area of your face and/or body that you’d like to derma roll.
We recommend to wear gloves when applying the cream to avoid losing sensations in your fingers which may hinder your ability to derma roll later on. Leave the cream on for 10 – 15 minutes and wipe them completely off with a wet cloth. It is important to remove all the numbing cream as you do not want it to enter your skin when you are derma rolling. Also, do not apply the numbing cream for longer than recommended as it may cause hyper-sensitive reaction to your skin.
If you are using microneedles of below 1mm, there really isn’t much pain when derma rolling, just a little pricking sensation which you will get used to very quickly. For microneedles above 1mm, you may consider using a numbing cream to prepare your skin to ease the pain.
Your skin is primed with thousands of tiny channels after your derma rolling session and that makes it the perfect moment to nourish the inner layer of your skin with serums and creams! One of the amazing benefits of dermarolling is that it allows skincare products to be absorbed much faster into deeper layers of the skin through these newly created channels. The direct passage way formed by these tiny punctures helps to transport the skincare products into deeper layers of the skin and thereby enhancing their benefits to the skin by 3000x more within the first hour of derma rolling!
Typically, serums are recommended over creams and other dosage forms because they are absorbed quickly into the skin leaving no residual on your face after application. This is important as you want to keep your face as lightweight and as clean as possible after derma rolling to avoid attracting dust and other unwanted particles.
To see enhanced results after derma rolling, it is advisable to use skincare products that helps to hydrate, heal and increase collagen production such as:
Vitamin C has powerful anti-aging properties to help combat fine lines and wrinkles. It does this by increasing the collagen production in your skin and asserting its antioxidant properties to protect your skin against harmful radicals. By allowing Vitamin C to be absorbed through derma rolling, you are enhancing these benefits so that you can see the results faster.
An effective moisturizer which can hold 1000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid works to plump & instantly moisturize your skin. By allowing hyaluronic acid to penetrate faster and deeper into your skin layer means that you are magnifying its benefits many folds over.
Vitamin E is another powerful antioxidant with amazing anti-inflammatory benefits. It can help in healing your skin post derma rolling and protect your skin against free radicals thus slowing down signs of aging.
Serums and creams that are formulated to combat signs of ageing are also great choices to use post derma rolling. Look for products that contain ingredients which can help to boost collagen or growth factor production.
Moisturizing your skin is an important step to lock in the moisture and prepare your skin to heal & work its magic. You can use your usual moisturizers but just check them to ensure that they do not contain any irritants such as parabens or artificial fragrances.
After derma rolling your skin may immediately appear red and swell slightly and it is important to know that this is a very normal process of derma rolling and is to be expected.
Afterall, you have just rolled thousands of times over your skin, it is completely normal to have the slight redness and swelling.
In most cases, especially if you are using microneedles less than 1.0 mm in length, the redness and swelling will subside within 24 hours. If you are using longer microneedles between 1.0 – 2.0 mm, it may take about 1 – 2 days for them to subside.
One of the most frequently asked question about derma rolling is how often to derma roll?
You can also use our recommended derma rolling schedule to help you get started with weekly derma rolling:
Monday – 0.5 mm roller
Monday – No Treatment
Tuesday – No Treatment
Tuesday- 0.5 mm derma roller
Wednesday- 0.5 mm derma roller
Wednesday – No Treatment
Thursday – No Treatment
Thursday- 0.5 mm derma roller
Friday- 0.5 mm derma roller
Friday – No Treatment
Saturday- No Treatment
Saturday- 0.5 mm derma roller
Sunday- 1.0 mm derma roller (optional)
Sunday- No Treatment
It is recommended to change your roller heads after every 5 - 6 uses to keep the microneedles sharp and free of any unwanted particles.
The last thing we want is to have dull needles penetrating our skin and causing injuries that are unnecessary. Changing roller heads regularly is also good hygiene practice to ensure that no micro - skin cells are left behind after derma rolling which may potentially cause infection.
As with anything, there are precautionary steps that we can take to optimize the results of derma rolling. Here are the list of most important precautions to take note before you start derma rolling:
1. NEVER share your derma roller with anybody.
This is one of the most important rules of derma rolling. There is a risk of contamination with sharing of derma rollers which can cause serious infections therefore, always make sure that each individual has their own derma roller set.
2. Do not derma roll on open wounds.
Active acne and open wounds are not advisable to be derma rolled as the microneedles may cause additional trauma to the healing skin and cause even worse outbreaks or prolong the healing process. Only derma roll on closed skin.
3. Always clean and disinfect your derma roller prior to derma rolling.
You want to only use a clean and disinfected derma roller on your skin to avoid introducing any unwanted bacteria or particles into the deeper layer of the skin. For more information on how to clean your derma roller, refer to the section above or this article.
4. Avoid direct sun or use sun protection if you are out within 24 hour of your therapy
The harmful UV rays may slow down the natural healing process of your skin and cause additional unwanted redness post derma rolling. Avoid direct sun at all cost and if you have to be out in the sun, always use sun protection.